A blazer should fit with the shoulder seam sitting where your own shoulder ends, the sleeve finishing at the wrist bone, and the front closing without pulling into an X at the button. It should skim your chest and waist rather than grip them. The hem usually lands around the hip.
The five-point blazer fit check
Try these in order. If the first one fails, the rest hardly matter, because it is the hardest thing to alter.
- Shoulder. The shoulder seam should hit right where your own shoulder ends. If it sits closer to your neck, the blazer is too small. If it juts past the point where your shoulder starts to slope down, it is too big. Shoulder alterations are complex and expensive, so get this right before you buy.
- Chest. The lapels should lie flat. If they bow out, or you see an X-shaped pull at the button, the blazer is too small. A gap between the lapel and your chest means it is too big.
- Button. Once buttoned, the fabric should lie flat across your chest and waist without gaping, twisting or visible strain. Undo the button before you sit down.
- Sleeve. See the sleeve section below.
- Length. A classic model should reach roughly mid-hip. A longer blazer can sit lower on purpose, which gives a more elongated shape.
Also move around in it. Reach forward, cross your arms and sit. You should be able to move your arms freely.
Where a tailor can help (and where they cannot)
Most of the fit can be adjusted except the shoulders. Sleeve length and waist can usually be adjusted by a tailor. Moving a button and shortening the hem slightly are also common fixes. Shoulders that are too wide are much harder to fix. If a blazer is off in the shoulders, choose a different size or cut.
This is one reason made-to-order tailoring appeals to people who struggle with off-the-rack sizing. Our jackets, blazers and coats are made after you order, and custom sizes are available alongside standard sizes.
Four ways to style a blazer
Once the fit is right, the styling is flexible. These four ideas cover most of the ways women wear a blazer.
1. With jeans, for smart-casual days
Straight-leg, high-rise jeans in darker washes look the most polished with a blazer. Add a plain tee, a fine knit or a silk top, then loafers or low boots. Camel, cream and soft grey blazers work well with vintage blue jeans. The sleeve scrunch is a useful trick here, because pushing the sleeves up a little makes the look more relaxed.
2. Over a dress, for a softer finish
A tailored blazer adds structure to a flowing dress. Try a fitted blazer over a slip dress or a midi or maxi dress. Keep the blazer at hip length so the dress hem shows beneath it, and belt the dress if you want your waist defined. Ankle boots or flat sandals work with this look.
3. Tonal and tucked, for work
Wear one colour family, such as charcoal over grey or camel over cream. Tuck in a fine top and wear straight or wide trousers. A structured wool blazer suits this look well, because it holds its shape through a long day.
4. Oversized with something slim
An oversized blazer looks best when the rest of the outfit is streamlined. If the blazer is oversized, the jeans need to be slimmer. If both are oversized, it reads as borrowed. Slim trousers, a bodysuit or a fitted knit all balance the volume.
Related questions
Should a blazer be tight or loose?
A blazer should fit close to your body without being tight. The shoulders should align with your natural shoulder line, and the waist should be lightly shaped. You should be able to wear a thin layer underneath and still close the button comfortably.
Where should blazer sleeves end?
With your arms resting at your sides, the sleeve should end around your wrist bone, or between the wrist bone and the first joint of your thumb. One tailoring guide suggests letting a quarter to half inch of shirt cuff show. Three-quarter sleeves are more forgiving, because they leave more room for error.
How do you style a blazer with jeans or a dress?
With jeans, choose a straight or relaxed leg and keep the top simple. With a dress, keep the blazer short enough to show the hem, and let the dress supply the softness while the blazer supplies the structure.
Does an oversized blazer follow the same rules?
Mostly, yes. The shoulder seam can sit slightly past the shoulder, though sources differ on how far, and the sleeves can run a little longer. An intentionally oversized blazer should still fit correctly at the shoulder seam to look chic rather than sloppy.
If you are weighing up a heavier layer, the guide on how a wool coat should fit applies many of the same checkpoints. Wool blazers and coats from ANAHIV are made to order, and the fit points above are the ones worth checking against your measurements.